Durham Cathedral Community Visit Lübeck
01/10/2009
David Hunt reports
As part of the Diocesan link with Germany’s North Elbian Church, in August eleven lay members of our Cathedral community paid a return visit to Lübeck, at the invitation of the Domwache, the body of volunteers whose formal task is to ‘guard’ the church’s ancient treasures, but who in practice provide the main ministry of welcome and information for visitors to Lübeck’s Cathedral (‘Dom’).
The first two days of our visit were concentrated on the Dom and its surroundings: the lofty white-washed interior dominated by the great 15th century wooden Rood and choirscreen beyond. One of the cathedral’s (only) two clergy, Pastor Riemer, led us on a pilgrimage round the building to illustrate its ecclesiastical evolution over the centuries: the addition, for example, of a new ‘east choir’ to provide more space for additional altars (which struck a familiar chord with visitors from Durham!); or the 16th century Pulpit positioned in the middle of the nave to mark the Reformation’s refocusing on the ministry of the Word.
Photograph: Evening reception in the east choir of the Dom, beside the tomb of Bishop Bocholt
Post-war rebuilding after the Allied bombing of Lübeck on Palm Sunday 1942 has brought further change: a modern altar not at the east end, but centrally placed beneath the pulpit, surrounded by seating for the congregation. We were given privileged access to normally unseen areas of the Dom: a demonstration of the interior workings of the medieval clock which forms part of the choirscreen; a glimpse into the painted burial chamber beneath the magnificent brass tomb of Bishop Bocholt (builder of the east choir); and a dizzy-making walk among the maze of roof timbers hidden above the great brick vaults of nave and choir.
The building also featured strongly in our meeting with volunteers from the Dom’s education programme, an important opportunity to exchange information and ideas about the Sunday School and the provision of a Christian framework for children’s visits.
Our visit to the Dom area included the St Annen Museum, a former convent now home to many of the great medieval altars from Lübeck’s churches, including (from the Dom itself) the world-famous Passion Altar by Hans Memling; and an amble through the ancient streets and charming alley-ways which make up the ‘Cathedral quarter’ of the city.
The last full day took us to the centre of Lübeck and an early morning civic welcome in the grand surroundings of the City Hall, followed by a visit to the nearby Marienkirche, famed as the church where Dietrich Buxtehude was organist (J.S.Bach at the age of 18 walked from Leipzig to hear him): even higher than the Dom (but not as long), it has risen again from the destruction of 1942, with the painted decoration on its walls remarkably surviving the flames. A memorial chapel preserves embedded in the floor two shattered bells which fell from the tower in the bombing, and alongside them a cross of nails from Coventry Cathedral: a poignant juxtaposition which bears witness to the healing and reconciliation of the post-war years.
At the heart of the visit lay the growing sense of community between the people of our two cathedrals: German hospitality was overflowing, existing friendships were cemented, and new friendships begun. For all this special thanks are due to the tireless efforts of Sylvia Graham, the moving spirit of the venture in Durham, and to the leader of the Domwache, Gustav Querfurth.
At an opening service in the Dom we were reminded that Durham is regularly remembered in their prayers, and as we regathered there at the end of our visit candles were lit to symbolize the bond between us. May they continue to burn brightly into the future!
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